A Love Letter to Bacalhau

The Codfather of Portuguese Cuisine: A Love Letter to Bacalhau

In Portugal, codfish, or bacalhau, isn’t just food; it’s a national treasure, a cultural icon, and, quite possibly, a religion. Ask any Portuguese person how many ways there are to cook bacalhau, and you’ll likely get the answer: “A thousand and one!” It’s not an exaggeration—it’s a culinary philosophy. Whether it’s baked, fried, grilled, or boiled, bacalhau is the centerpiece of countless family dinners, festive celebrations, and nostalgic memories.

A Brief History of Bacalhau: A Love Across Oceans

Ironically, bacalhau doesn’t swim in Portuguese waters. This salty delicacy has been imported to Portugal for centuries, with origins dating back to the Age of Exploration. Portuguese sailors needed a durable, long-lasting source of protein for their long voyages, and the codfish from the icy waters of the North Atlantic, preserved with salt, became their loyal companion. Over time, it moved from the high seas to the dinner table, earning its status as the “Faithful Friend” (Fiel Amigo) of Portuguese cuisine.

The tradition of bacalhau only grew stronger over the centuries. It’s a staple during Christmas dinners, a go-to comfort food for families, and an integral part of Portugal’s gastronomic identity. And let’s face it, if the Portuguese had a national mascot, it might very well be a salted cod.

Two Recipes to Bring Bacalhau to Your Table

Now, let’s demystify this legendary fish with two simple recipes you can try at home. No fancy equipment, no stress—just good food and a dash of Portuguese charm.

1. Bacalhau à Brás (Creamy Cod Scramble)

This dish is comfort food at its finest: shredded bacalhau mixed with golden fried potatoes, onions, eggs, and olives. Think of it as a Portuguese take on scrambled eggs but far more luxurious.

Ingredients (Serves 4):

• 400g of salted bacalhau (soaked and desalted for 24–48 hours)
• 500g of potatoes (peeled and julienned)
• 1 large onion (sliced thinly)
• 4 eggs
• 50ml of olive oil
• Black olives and parsley for garnish

Method:

1. Boil the bacalhau until tender, then shred it into small pieces.
2. Fry the julienned potatoes in olive oil until golden and crispy. Set aside.
3. In a large pan, sauté the onions in olive oil until soft, then add the shredded bacalhau.
4. Stir in the fried potatoes, followed by the beaten eggs. Cook gently, stirring, until the eggs are creamy.
5. Garnish with black olives and fresh parsley. Serve immediately.

Pairing: A crisp Vinho Verde complements the creamy richness of Bacalhau à Brás with its zesty acidity and light effervescence.

2. Bacalhau Assado no Forno (Oven-Baked Cod with Potatoes and Garlic)

This is a rustic, no-fuss dish that lets the flavours of bacalhau shine. It’s hearty, simple, and utterly delicious.

Ingredients (Serves 4):

• 4 pieces of salted bacalhau (soaked and desalted for 24–48 hours)
• 500g of small potatoes (halved)
• 1 large onion (sliced)
• 6 garlic cloves (sliced)
• 100ml of olive oil
• Fresh thyme or bay leaves
• Salt and pepper to taste

Method:

1. Preheat the oven to 180°C.
2. Arrange the potatoes, onions, and garlic in a baking dish. Drizzle with olive oil, season with salt and pepper, and toss well.
3. Lay the bacalhau pieces on top of the potato mixture, adding fresh thyme or bay leaves for flavour.
4. Drizzle with more olive oil and bake for 35–40 minutes, until the fish is golden and the potatoes are tender.
5. Serve straight from the oven with a squeeze of lemon, if desired.

Pairing: A rich Douro white with a touch of oak will bring out the savoury depth of this dish, balancing the hearty potatoes and aromatic olive oil.

Why Bacalhau is More Than a Dish

Cooking bacalhau isn’t just about following a recipe; it’s about embracing a piece of Portuguese culture. It’s the food of family gatherings, the highlight of festive tables, and a dish that carries the spirit of Portugal in every bite. So, whether it’s your first time cooking bacalhau or your hundredth, pour a glass of wine, put on some Fado music, and let this faithful friend transport you to the sun-drenched hills of Portugal.

Bon appétit—or, as the Portuguese say, Bom apetite! Cheers to discovering the joy of bacalhau with the perfect glass of Portuguese wine by your side.